Apply construction silicone to the edges of the glass. Then slide the glass into the frame. Use a trowel to remove excess silicone. We need window wooden glazing beads to ensure the glass was firmly in the structure and did not rattle. These are such triangular thin strips.
Glazing bead at the joints between the frame and glass. Secure it with small nails, hammering them vertically into the frame. The optimal distance between them is 25-30 cm. All that is left is to screw on the fittings.
Our site has an article about ways to glaze the balcony, among which there is a meager cost. You can see all the variants here: https://oknanagoda.com/balkony-lodzhii/osteklenie/luchshe-osteklit-balkon.html.
Read here about the legal approval of new glazing on the balcony (what if it comes to that?), penalties, and other nuances.
Putting the frame back in the window frame
Install the frame in the window box. If there are gaps, you can seal them with a special self-adhesive rubber sealant. Cut the strip of adhesive to the required size, remove the protective film and firmly attach it around the perimeter of the frame.
New life for old windows - renovating wooden frames
Sooner or later, the windows in our house or apartment begin to wear out, leading to water leakage during the rain, the desiccation of sashes, and the appearance of cracks and chips in them. And although it seems that there is only one solution - the purchase of new metal-plastic windows to replace the old, wooden ones, do not rush. After a few days of slow work, your old wooden windows will shine with new colors and serve you for many years.
So, restoration of old wooden windows. Despite the apparent complexity of the work, in this process, there is nothing that you can not do yourself, have patience and familiarize yourself with the theory. And if patience will not reward you with this article, the author will share the knowledge now.
First, let's define exactly what tools and materials we will need. To restore old windows, prepare: a construction hair dryer, a grinder, several brushes, wood stain and varnish, ordinary wooden glazing beads to replace the old ones, window seals and hardware, glass (if necessary), several grinding wheels to work with wood.
You probably have small tools, such as paintbrushes, on hand; if you don't, you can easily buy them at any hardware store. As for "bigger" devices, such as a sander and a construction hair dryer, given the relatively high cost of the latter, we recommend renting them from friends or acquaintances.
The work begins with the disassembly of the old windows. First, we remove the sashes, unscrewing the old bolts. If the bolts are rusted, help yourself with grease from rust, but if it does not save, then a tiny drill on the metal gently drilled out useless bolts.
After the window sashes are removed, it is necessary to examine them. If they are loose, disassemble them and, having glued them with a special glue, put them back together until they are dehydrated.
Next, you must disassemble the window by removing all the fittings, the glazing beads that hold the glass together, and the glass. A little advice: as a rule, glazing bars are the first to go out of operation, rotting from moisture, so the old glazing bars are put aside. In the future, we will replace the old glazing bars with new ones.
After disassembling the window, proceed to its cleaning from old paint layers. To do this, a construction hair dryer heats the surface of the wood, and a spatula removes the heated layer of paint. There are a few nuances that must be taken into account: first, the spatula must be slightly blunted, so while working with wood, do not scratch it, and secondly, do not keep the hair dryer over one area of the window for too long, it is fraught with damage to wood. Note that you can also remove paint with sanding discs; however, such discs will quickly be clogged with old paint residues and thus will fail sooner.
After removing most of the old paint, we proceed to sand the wood. To do this, we carefully clean the surface of the window from the color and smooth it out; then, using a coarse and then a fine nozzle, grind the window—difficult-to-reach areas of the windows, such as corners at the joints, manually processed by sandpaper.
Having properly prepared the surface of the windows, let's work on the glazing beads. For this purpose, from the previously purchased glazing beads, cut blanks of the desired length for us and drill holes in them with a thin drill bit at the points of attachment of nails. Do not ignore this step. Without pre-drilling holes, glazing beads may crack when nailing into them.
Next, proceed to the painting work. First, we treated the windows' surface and prepared glazing beads with stains.
After all parts of the windows have dried, we paint them with several layers of varnish, giving each layer a chance to dry completely.
The main work with the restoration of the windows is completed, so it is time to say a few words about their insulation.
Window insulation is carried out to reduce heat loss in the apartment. In addition, adequately insulated windows provide a more tight closing and prevent drafts in your apartment.
How to insulate windows? There are several options: insulation with special pasting tape or a rubber seal inserted into specially made grooves in the "body" of the window.
The first case is more budgetary and does not require much effort in installation; however, it is also less durable.
As for the second option, this insulation is undoubtedly more reliable and durable, but more expensive and requires special skills and tools; its installation may be beyond the power of a person who has never been engaged in such a thing.
Based on the above, we recommend using the first option, which, although not as reliable and durable, will not bring you any trouble during installation and will protect your home from the cold for several years.
Restoration of old wooden windows with your own hands - sequence of work
New PVC double-glazed windows replace old wooden structures, but not all owners are in a hurry to install them. Indeed, apart from the mass of advantages, plastic has many disadvantages as a manufactured material. Therefore repair and restoration of wooden windows are still relevant, aimed at extending their service life. All the work can be done independently by applying certain technologies and using the necessary tools and materials.
Wooden windows, even if they are old Stalinist, have some advantages, which include:
- high performance and environmental characteristics of the natural material;
- the favorable microclimate created by them inside the room because the wood has a unique structure that allows it to "breathe";
- low thermal conductivity, which is very beneficial in terms of energy-saving;
- long service life because wood is a durable and easily repairable material;
- Attractive appearance, so they fit well into any interior.
In addition, it should be noted that the cost of restoring old window systems is lower than the cost of new glazing. And all the work can be done even by a novice craftsman. The only difficulty of the procedure is a big-time expenditure, especially if the house or apartment has many windows.
Restoration is carried out in several stages, starting with low-key elements in the far room. This will allow you to get the necessary experience and repair the remaining windows more qualitatively.
Dismantling work is carried out in the following sequence:
- The first thing to do is remove the glass to remain intact until reinstallation. Carefully remove the nails and staples, picking them up with an improvised tool. If caulk was used, it is knocked out with a chisel, taking care not to apply excessive force and not damage the glass.
- Dismantle the window frames. If there are difficulties, they are removed with awnings, first unscrewing the screws that hold them. As a last resort, the screws are drilled out with a metal drill of the appropriate diameter.
- Removal of window frames is carried out as necessary - when they are destroyed or need to be restored.
Frames are cleaned of paint by choosing one of the most common methods - thermal or chemical. Each has its peculiarities. First, you need a construction hair dryer. The process itself is uncomplicated and is carried out in the following sequence:
- the painted surfaces are heated;
- After waiting for the old paint to swell and become softer, it is removed with a spatula;
- Finally, the entire structure is cleaned with sandpaper.
The chemical method uses special agents - rinsers, carrying out the work in the following order:
- the substance is applied to the painted surface;
- then the treated area is covered with a polyethylene film;
- After waiting for one to two hours, it is removed, and the dissolved paint is removed with a spatula;
- If necessary, the procedure is repeated.
Since flushing is very toxic, all operations are carried out in a well-ventilated room using personal protective equipment.
After the paint is removed, proceed to frame repair, which is carried out in several stages:
- Prepared structures are laid on even wooden boards made of plywood or chipboard.
- Check the geometry of the frames and individual sashes. The easiest way is to measure the diagonals. If the values are the same, everything is fine.
- Frames are fixed by hammering nails around their perimeter.
- Drill out the old dowels. To make the hole neat, take a drill a little larger in diameter than the rods' size.
- New dowels are prepared from well dried and not cracked wood with a core drill, making sure to choose the direction across the grain. Their diameter should exceed the size of the planting holes by 0.6-0.7 mm.
- The frame is disassembled completely, and joints are smeared with joinery glue.
- Parts are assembled in reverse order and placed in the template on the board. When doing so, check the equality of the diagonals and, if necessary, trim them.
- Dowels smeared with liquid nails are hammered into the prepared holes using a mallet. Or an ordinary hammer, but through a sag of a wooden bar.
Any chips or cracks on the surface of the frames are sealed with putty designed to work with wood. Fill the holes left by old self-tapping screws and nails. If the structure is covered with varnish, the putty is selected under the color of the wood.
Check the quarters for the wings and sash. Existing gaps are removed with liquid nails. If the strap in the landing frames comes in with force, the excess wood is cut with a chisel. After adjustment, all surfaces are treated with sandpaper to get the smoothest base. At the end of the wooden elements are covered with a protective impregnation, which should be rubbed in. The procedure is carried out in two steps.
Window frames are restored similarly. They are also cleaned, puttied, treated with a protective composition, and painted.
After the frames are assembled, the next step is to apply the paint coating. How well it will be done depends directly on the appearance and durability of the windows. Painting is carried out as follows:
- the surface of the frame is treated with fine sandpaper;
- cleaned of dust;
- in two steps coated with a layer of primer, which improves adhesion and reduces the consumption of material;
- Prepare the varnish or paint, for what, pouring into a small container, stir, and bring to the right consistency;
- To avoid stains, paint is applied with a brush in two layers, but for some types of paint is better to use a tampon.
It remains to install the new fittings and glass. The first thing to do is install the insulation according to Swedish technology. The essence of the method is to cut a groove around the perimeter of the frame 1 cm deep. It is filled with a tubular silicone sealant, which has a service life of 20 years. The "tail" of the tape is inserted into the prepared groove and pressed to the ground using a plastic spatula, a particular device.
Swedish technology allows for a high level of thermal and noise insulation in the room.
Install metal corners, which will give the structure greater strength and canopies. Before screwing in new self-tapping screws to prevent the wood from cracking, holes are pre-drilled for them. When attaching the sashes, you should use a level. The more accurately they are aligned, the easier it is to open and fewer gaps. Similarly, act when installing the wings.
Before installing the windows, all the corners of the quarters are filled with silicone sealant and gently set in place after fixing glazing beads. After waiting for the adhesive to harden, mount pawls handles and other fittings. On this repair with their own hands of the window wooden frames is completed. As you can see, there are no notable difficulties in the work. Therefore, you should only pay attention to the accuracy and compliance with the above recommendations.
Self and professional restoration of old windows is often based on Swedish technology. However, its essence boils down to cutting the Euro-strip sealing cord, and the adjustment and repainting remain extra services. The price starts from 3000 rubles/window. And in principle, the Euro-strip technology is not a restoration but insulation. (About which, in anticipation of the onset of cold weather, we wrote here).
Below, the article will describe the technology of repairing wooden windows, allowing even rotten windows to look no worse than plastic, and add them at least 40 years of life.
In the meantime, let's find out what tools and materials are needed for this - there are not many of them:
- A set of chisels of different widths, from 4 to 30 mm.
- A fragment of wide, 4-6 mm and thin, no more than 0,3 mm jigsaw or jigsaw blade (band saw). Suppose a hand jigsaw on the farm is a solid round for it.
- A wide shoemaker's knife, a special knife used by painters to scrape paint off a palette.
- Thin-walled core drill bit for wood 8-10 mm on the inside; purchased after revision of the sashes.
- Carpenter's angle.
- Racetrack or bubble level 1 m.
You will also need a plumb line, but you can easily make it yourself from a thread with a nut. Finally, you will need the following materials:
- Мwood glue - "liquid nails", about 0.3 kg.
- Wood putty on sawdust of the desired tone, 0.5 kg, or 0.5 l of fine sawdust; sold in construction stores.
- Natural olive, 3 kg for a two-room apartment of average area.
- Thickness whitewash (dry mixture of pigment and filler, diluted by hand with thinner), titanium or zinc whitewash, 2 kg of the same calculation.
- Flute brushes 40 and 80 mm.
- Kerosene, 2 liters.
- Nails, minor and 60-80 mm, 0.5 kg.
- Sandpaper #60 or #80, 0.7 m.
- A dense plastic bag 1.7 m deep and 0.5 m wide. The packing from bedding etc., will do. Holes should be sealed with tape.
- A sheet of plywood or a flat board of boards slightly larger than the window frame.
- Scraps of aviation or water-resistant plywood 1-1.5 mm thick, or a block of sturdy fine wood such as oak, beech, walnut, mountain ash, pear, plum, cherry, acacia.
- Silicone glue, 10-20 ml.
Note: water-based deep penetrating polymer wood fillers are not suitable for this application: they significantly increase the thermal conductivity of wooden parts.
In addition, depending on the design of the window, you may need a stain of the desired color and acrylic clear varnish. If it is possible to use an industrial hair dryer, kerosene and a large plastic bag will not be needed. Having stocked up on the above, you can start overhauling old windows.
It is better to work on the windows in warm, even hot, dry weather: the proper humidity should not exceed 65% and better than 40%. In case of bad weather, the window openings for the period of repair tighten the film on a temporary frame of waste lumber: slabs, trash, old billets, etc.