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How to repair wood window frames
Window replacement

How to repair wood window frames

How to properly perform maintenance, installation replacement of windows in an apartment and a house. Advice from specialists in the installation of windows of the company Aspectmontage MA

How to repair wood window frames Boston
Window replacement
Window replacement

Repair wood window frames

Restoring wooden windows step by step

If you have bought an old house with unattractive wooden windows, do not rush to throw them away and buy new ones. Instead, you can repair the old frames with your hands and, with the help of our tips and modern finishing materials, turn the frog into a princess. Restoration of wooden windows is a labor-intensive process. But it is much cheaper than putting in new windows. We will tell you how to restore a wooden window with your hands.

Restoration of wooden windows with their own hands. Dismantling

The first step is dismantling. Often in old private houses, window frames are inserted into the opening, and they can be taken out with the help of a montage. The main thing in this case - apply force evenly, moving the mount across the entire height of the window and on both sides so that the window is not distorted.

If you need to unscrew hinges painted with paint, you can remove the color from the screws by tapping with a hammer on a screwdriver. After that, unscrewing them will be much easier.

Tip! The old caulk will be easier to remove if you heat it with a hair dryer.

How to repair an old window

Once the glass is removed, you can begin cleaning and restoring the wood surfaces. You can use a construction hair dryer to remove the paint.

Or with a unique aggressive paint remover. It is applied to the surface, and it destroys the paint. But you must be careful when working with it - it is dangerous to the skin. Be sure to use gloves.

Now that the paint is removed, you can fully assess the damage to the window frame. Further actions depend on what kind of picture will be revealed to you.

If the wood has rotten areas, the rotten wood must be removed. Further on the circumstances: if the potholes are small and can be putty, proceed to puttying. Sometimes puttying can be done in several stages - it depends on the extent of the damage.

You can prepare a filler of sawdust and PVA glue for medium-sized damage that putty can't handle.

Fill the damaged areas with this mixture.

After the sawdust glue has dried, putty any small potholes that remain.

If the rotted area is too large for the putty and filler, you must fill it with bars cut to size. They should be planted on the glue and, if possible, nailed or screwed with self-tapping screws.

After the glue dries, the area should be puttied with ordinary wood.

The next step is sanding. First, the frame should be thoroughly sanded.

Pay special attention to the putty areas.

Restoration of wooden windows. Finishing

Before you start finishing, degrease the surface of the frame with white spirit or a similar solvent. Alcohol is not suitable for this!

Next, be sure to prime our windows.

The frame is now ready to be painted. Again, you can use clear paint if you are lucky and your window is not damaged.

Wood - is a fantastic material, and wooden windows painted with transparent paint look incredibly attractive. But plastic windows still can't match if you have to paint your windows with regular opaque wood to hide the putty and traces of repairs.

Once painted, the frame is ready to be glazed and returned to its place, where it will last for many more years. Restoring wooden windows requires a lot of time and labor, but do not let this scare you. All the effort will return a hundredfold because such windows are much more environmentally friendly and attractive than modern plastic windows. In addition, the restoration will be much cheaper than buying and installing new windows.

Self-repair of wooden windows - the primary defects and how to fix them

Products made of natural materials have been actively winning back leadership positions from their synthetic substitutes for some time. This also applies to windows: while recently installing plastic double-glazed windows was considered the height of chic, many have begun to doubt the advisability of such a decision. No matter how wonderful it is, plastic is a product of chemical production, and therefore, in one way or another, it may be unsafe for human health. Wooden windows are an entirely different matter. They are environmentally friendly, beautiful, and durable structures that can be quickly restored, unlike their plastic counterparts. Repairing old wooden windows allows you to breathe new life into them: to return their original appearance and restore functionality.

If you decide to repair the wooden windows yourself, the first thing to do is examine them for defects. Each detected defect in the process of work will need to be corrected.

Defect 1: The gap between the frame and the window frame

Very often, the problem with wooden windows is the lack of air tightness, which leads to draughts in the apartment. Inspecting the window between the frame and frame usually reveals a gap formed by poorly executed sealing sashes in the box gates.

This defect is easily eliminated by placing a seal - rubber, PVC, or foam - in the window sash halves. Thus cope with two important tasks: at the same time making repairs and insulation of wooden windows.

Sometimes such a defect can be corrected without the help of seals. To do this, the hinges are bent opposite from the sash half-shear. If the gap was formed along the entire length of the sash, it is necessary to turn all the hinges. However, if the defect is manifested only in one area, it will be enough to bend the hinge only in the place of the gap.

Defect 2: Window sashes close tightly

Another common defect of wooden frames is their warping, after which the sashes begin to close with difficulty or do not close at all. If you are faced with such a defect, the first thing to inspect is the hinges - they tend to "settle." In this case, there are several solutions. First, you can put the hinges in new places on the frame or a wire on the hinge pins to adjust the height of the sashes.

Sometimes the warping is caused by the deformation of the frame due to the swelling of the wood. In this case, it will be enough to plan the excess with a planer and adjust the structure to the box. If you can not visually identify the place of crushing, do the following: close and open the window and pull a strip of tracing paper between the frame and the box. Those parts of the structure will remain marks and need to be structured. Sometimes, the frame will stop closing due to too thick a layer of paint, which must be peeled off. This is done with coarse-grit sandpaper.

Defect 3: Window sash warping

Window sashes can warp when the frame corners come loose. There are several ways to eliminate this defect, but the most accessible and reliable is the use of metal corners installed on the sash corners. To fix the corners, on the frame chisel, cut planting slots. There are corners placed so they are just below the surface of the frame. Screw them with screws. Then the place of the installed corner is putty and sanded with emery paper.

Defect 4: rotting of a part of the binding or the frame

Sometimes whole pieces of rotten wood can be found in old wooden windows. In this case, there is nothing to do but replace them with new ones. To do this:

  1. Cut out the damaged part with a chisel.
  2. Try to capture some healthy tissue to prevent the spread of rot.
  3. Smear the resulting recess with epoxy or carpentry glue and fix a pre-cut piece of new wood. After the glue hardens, this area is sanded with a grinder or sandpaper.

Defect 5: Peeling or cracked paint

Any repair and restoration of wooden windows, as a rule, do not do without the renewal of the old paint coating. Putting another coat on the peeling paint is a bad idea that can only prevent the wood from rotting and will not improve the window's appearance. Therefore, we recommend that you completely get rid of the old paint and then apply new paint.

For convenience, you should remove the window from its hinges, the glass, and all metal parts. Otherwise, the labor intensity of repair will increase, and the quality may suffer.

Old paint can be removed by heating it with a construction hair dryer or blowtorch. Under the influence of high temperatures, the layer of paint will bubble up and come away from the wood, which is easy to remove with a trowel or scraping machine. The same peeling effect can be achieved by treating the painted window with a special paint stripper. These two options are similar in their impact and allow you to quickly remove the old coating from the windows with minimum labor.

Their only disadvantage is that these activities must be carried out in the open air, as removing the paint involves the release of harmful gases. If this does not suit you, then you can consider another option - removing dye by mechanical means with trowels, scrapers, and metal brushes. This kind of automatic repair of wooden windows is complicated and is more suitable for those cases where the paint is so old that it falls off by itself.

All the irregularities and cracks on the wood surface fill and ground with sandpaper or grinder. Primer is applied in two layers and then proceeded to paint. For effective results, 2-3 layers use paint coatings on the wood. As a rule, the first coat is done with paint diluted with solvent. The resulting thin composition soaks into the wood and allows, in combination with subsequent coats, to obtain a uniform, dense coating. The most effective staining result can be obtained if you use a paint or varnish gun to apply the paint or varnish. Painting with a brush should be done more accurately because, in this case, there is a greater likelihood of overlapping, uneven application.

Below is a video that shows how to restore an old wooden window.

Repairing wooden windows with your own hands is not difficult. Still, it allows you to save a sufficient amount of money, extend the life of the usual wooden windows, and, if possible, postpone the need to install new insulating glass.

The repair of wooden windows with your own hands

How good it is to live in a house where plastic windows are installed can only be appreciated by the person who previously cleaned, painted, washed, and plugged the cracks in the old frames for many years of his life. Often there was a need to repair old wooden windows with their own hands. Now there are not many houses left that do not have plastic. This is due to lack of funds and aesthetic reasons: many people are convinced that wooden frames are more beautiful. Sometimes people do not use plastic because they believe it harms their health.

In any case, when the frames are framed with wood, they need to be painted. And in the process of operation, they need to be repaired. This is not a simple matter, and it is not so pleasant. Only the final stage, when the transformed frame sparkles with fresh paint, can make you happy!

Preparatory works

To be repaired are suitable, not rotten frames, even if they are cracked in some places. The main thing is that the wood preserves its structure. To improve and repaint a stand, you must remove the old paint. This is the most unpleasant part of the job of turning an old shabby, and unsightly frame into a beautiful window. The most convenient way to work is to set the edge, carefully remove the glazing beads, and remove the glass.

There are three recommended ways to remove the old paint:

  1. Wash it with various solutions that dissolve the paint and then remove it.
  2. Simply scrape the frame with a sharp object or spatula.
  3. Heat the color with building tools and remove it.

All three methods have been tried in practice by the author of this article, and I can responsibly say that the third method is the most effective. The blurring of the paint has little effect. Everything is smeared, but the absolute amount of color is still there. In addition, the frames then have to dry for a long time; if you peel the paint off with a sharp object damages the wood.

If the paint is left due to the job, it is evenly distributed across the surface. As a result, virtually all of it is absorbed into the wood, and, in addition, it is a tiny portion that goes to good use: it protects the frames from fungus and dampness.

Tips for removing old paint 

  1. One of the articles on the Internet advises removing paint with a gas can for camping stoves. It is incredible how inventive Russian people are in finding ways to complicate simple things! There are special construction hair dryers. Convenient, comfortable, and most importantly - not dangerous! But no, you need to use a gas cylinder. And it is advised: look, that besides children was not. The construction dryer has three degrees of heating, is lightweight, and inexpensive, work with him - is a pleasure. Paint under the influence of temperature melts and is immediately removed by a spatula. The wood does not suffer, remaining intact. Have solvent and rags ready to remove the paint from the tool and wood from time to time.
  2. Sanding Tools. EDMs - electric sanders are also inexpensive. For example, you can buy an Interskol machine for $16-$20. Having a set of nozzles makes it comfortable and easy to work with them. True, there is more dust.

Preparing the frame for painting

 When the paint is completely removed, you need to sand it well with sandpaper. You can do this with your hands. If the work is extensive, you can also use a grinder. Attach sandpaper to the working part - and you're welcome to work with pleasure.

Ground surface inspected for cracks and chips, sealing as necessary putty on wood. It is applied in a thin layer and smoothed with a trowel. The cured putty is also brushed with fine sandpaper until smooth.

 Silicone has a transparent texture. It is not visible on the glass and seals the cracks hermetically.

Glasses are inserted into the frames, and glazing beads are fixed. Gaps between glazing bars and reflector are sealed with window caulk. A modern way to insulate wooden windows: a construction gun and pure silicone. It is transparent, and it is not visible on the glass. The gaps are sealed hermetically. You must practice applying it accurately, and even thin strip on the space between the glass and the staple. If the first experience is unsuccessful, the silicone can easily be removed with a rag and solvent.

If the frames are new, the paint was only removed, they are well sanded to wood, and they can be varnished. Preliminary lumber is impregnated with a special primer that protects the frame from rotting, coated with a primer on wood to get the right shade. Varnish should be taken for exterior use. Old structures are better painted with oil paint.

How to repair and paint a wooden window

 Your old wooden window has fallen into disrepair: the wood is cracked, and the paint is peeling? Do not rush to change it for a new one. It will be much more economical to repair and repaint wooden windows if you do it yourself.

Determine the degree of damage to the window

Open the window and inspect the wood in places where the paint has peeled off. If its density already resembles foam or is even softer - it is not worth the trouble, and it is better to replace the window. If cracks or fungus exist, but the frame is quite firm, the wooden window will last long after restoration. Next, check the geometry of the window and sashes. Do they lean too much?

If sashes are skewed and you are open to catching the window sill, you will need wooden wedges and steel corners for repairs. First, close the window sash tightly. Adjust its position with wedges. Next, install metal corners in the loosened corners of the frame. Secure them with screws. Now the belts should sit firmly in the frame.

There is material on this site about decorating windows for the New Year's holidays. Such beauty will make your windows look as good as new!

Perhaps a more sensible solution is to replace the old wooden windows with new ones. Read about wooden glazing balconies in this material.

The glass itself also requires careful inspection. Old and cracked out! Prepare the money for a new one. Clean and lubricate the fittings, and replace the rusty ones.

Dismantling the old covering

 To restore old windows with your hands, you must carefully remove the frame from the window frame. Then remove the sashes. Do not rip them out with the meat, but gently tap on the hinges with a chisel. The panes of glass also need to be taken out. And remove the old putty from them with a chisel or an aggressive solvent if you plan to put them back in.

Preparing and painting the window coverings

Preparing and painting the window coverings

This is quite a tedious and dusty process. But this kind of repair of old wooden windows will pay off. After him, the window will be slightly different from the new one.

Remove the old paint.

Removing old paint from wooden frames can be done in two ways: with a construction hair dryer or liquid washer.

Method #1.

 Take a construction hair dryer in one hand and a spatula in the other. Point the hot air jet at the paint. As soon as the color starts to bubble and come off, use the trowel to remove it. To avoid overheating and damaging the tool, work at intervals. The advantage of this method is that the paint is removed in one go.

Method #2

You will need an aggressive flush. It is pretty dangerous and not just for old paint. Therefore, wear rubber gloves and safety glasses when working with it. Apply the blush with a brush without skipping. It is better with a surplus, and an even layer is not required. Your job is to get the solution liberally on all painted areas.

 After a few minutes, you will see that the paint begins to swell and soften to a curd-like state. It's an excellent time to remove it before it hardens. If necessary, repeat this process until the frame is spotless. A definite plus is that it is much cheaper to buy a liquid flush than a construction hair dryer.

Degrease the surface

This is a simple but crucial stage of window repair. The grease on the wood will not allow the paint and primer to take hold. And all this will affect the quality of the color. Therefore, we clean the surface with a solvent, such as "White spirit." In the extreme case with gasoline, but not with acetone or alcohol - they are mixed with water.

She was smoothing the frame with putty.

Rotten areas in the frame should be removed with a planer. And the resulting potholes and cracks should be putty with acrylic putty for wood with a rubber spatula.

Attention! If the pieces of rotten wood are large and one puttying will not do, you will need patches of dry material. Cut wedges of wood to size and plant them on the glue.

Sanding the surface

Before painting the window frames, they need to be sanded. To do this, you need to go over them with sandpaper.

 It is very convenient to sand with a wooden bar wrapped in sandpaper. The surface should become evenly rough. This way, the paint will adhere better to it. Remember that sanding generates a lot of fine dust. Professionals wear a respirator and safety glasses.

Priming the Frame.

You will open the wood's pores by washing off the old paint. Next, they need to be covered with primer. It will penetrate deep into the wood, creating a film on it that will protect the wood from rotting. In addition, the primer is needed for better adhesion of the paint to the surface.

You will need oil (olive) or acrylic wood primer for priming. You do not have to buy an expensive one. Cheap primer will also work, but it must be applied in several layers. You can prime with a small brush or with a spray gun. Allow the primer to dry completely before painting.


Using acrylic, oil, or alkyd enamel paint to paint windows with your hands is better. Alkyd is more expensive but dries faster and is almost odorless. In second place is acrylic. The brush should be flat. It is also called a flute.

 You can find special paint for frames and window sills in construction stores. It has a jelly-like consistency and leaves no streaks. It also has a self-leveling property. This means there won't be any brush marks on this paint. Start at the top of the frame. Apply the paint in a thin layer to avoid bleeding. Take care not to leave any gaps. Effective painting involves 2 to 3 coats. When applying each successive coat, wait until the previous coat has dried.

You can avoid paint overspray using a foam pad instead of a brush. It is a tampon, not a roller. Foam for it should not be too old, but also not new. A bath sponge that has already been used is the best! Such a swab will absorb excess paint, do not let it drip off in sloppy drops.

Inserting the Glasses

Apply construction silicone to the edges of the glass. Then slide the glass into the frame. Use a trowel to remove excess silicone. We need window wooden glazing beads to ensure the glass was firmly in the structure and did not rattle. These are such triangular thin strips.

Glazing bead at the joints between the frame and glass. Secure it with small nails, hammering them vertically into the frame. The optimal distance between them is 25-30 cm. All that is left is to screw on the fittings.

Our site has an article about ways to glaze the balcony, among which there is a meager cost. You can see all the variants here:

Read here about the legal approval of new glazing on the balcony (what if it comes to that?), penalties, and other nuances.

Putting the frame back in the window frame

Install the frame in the window box. If there are gaps, you can seal them with a special self-adhesive rubber sealant. Cut the strip of adhesive to the required size, remove the protective film and firmly attach it around the perimeter of the frame.

New life for old windows - renovating wooden frames

 Sooner or later, the windows in our house or apartment begin to wear out, leading to water leakage during the rain, the desiccation of sashes, and the appearance of cracks and chips in them. And although it seems that there is only one solution - the purchase of new metal-plastic windows to replace the old, wooden ones, do not rush. After a few days of slow work, your old wooden windows will shine with new colors and serve you for many years.

So, restoration of old wooden windows. Despite the apparent complexity of the work, in this process, there is nothing that you can not do yourself, have patience and familiarize yourself with the theory. And if patience will not reward you with this article, the author will share the knowledge now.

 First, let's define exactly what tools and materials we will need. To restore old windows, prepare: a construction hair dryer, a grinder, several brushes, wood stain and varnish, ordinary wooden glazing beads to replace the old ones, window seals and hardware, glass (if necessary), several grinding wheels to work with wood.

You probably have small tools, such as paintbrushes, on hand; if you don't, you can easily buy them at any hardware store. As for "bigger" devices, such as a sander and a construction hair dryer, given the relatively high cost of the latter, we recommend renting them from friends or acquaintances.

 The work begins with the disassembly of the old windows. First, we remove the sashes, unscrewing the old bolts. If the bolts are rusted, help yourself with grease from rust, but if it does not save, then a tiny drill on the metal gently drilled out useless bolts.

After the window sashes are removed, it is necessary to examine them. If they are loose, disassemble them and, having glued them with a special glue, put them back together until they are dehydrated.

Next, you must disassemble the window by removing all the fittings, the glazing beads that hold the glass together, and the glass. A little advice: as a rule, glazing bars are the first to go out of operation, rotting from moisture, so the old glazing bars are put aside. In the future, we will replace the old glazing bars with new ones.

After disassembling the window, proceed to its cleaning from old paint layers. To do this, a construction hair dryer heats the surface of the wood, and a spatula removes the heated layer of paint. There are a few nuances that must be taken into account: first, the spatula must be slightly blunted, so while working with wood, do not scratch it, and secondly, do not keep the hair dryer over one area of the window for too long, it is fraught with damage to wood. Note that you can also remove paint with sanding discs; however, such discs will quickly be clogged with old paint residues and thus will fail sooner.

 After removing most of the old paint, we proceed to sand the wood. To do this, we carefully clean the surface of the window from the color and smooth it out; then, using a coarse and then a fine nozzle, grind the window—difficult-to-reach areas of the windows, such as corners at the joints, manually processed by sandpaper.

Having properly prepared the surface of the windows, let's work on the glazing beads. For this purpose, from the previously purchased glazing beads, cut blanks of the desired length for us and drill holes in them with a thin drill bit at the points of attachment of nails. Do not ignore this step. Without pre-drilling holes, glazing beads may crack when nailing into them.

Next, proceed to the painting work. First, we treated the windows' surface and prepared glazing beads with stains.

After all parts of the windows have dried, we paint them with several layers of varnish, giving each layer a chance to dry completely.

 The main work with the restoration of the windows is completed, so it is time to say a few words about their insulation.

Window insulation is carried out to reduce heat loss in the apartment. In addition, adequately insulated windows provide a more tight closing and prevent drafts in your apartment.

How to insulate windows? There are several options: insulation with special pasting tape or a rubber seal inserted into specially made grooves in the "body" of the window.

The first case is more budgetary and does not require much effort in installation; however, it is also less durable.

As for the second option, this insulation is undoubtedly more reliable and durable, but more expensive and requires special skills and tools; its installation may be beyond the power of a person who has never been engaged in such a thing.

Based on the above, we recommend using the first option, which, although not as reliable and durable, will not bring you any trouble during installation and will protect your home from the cold for several years.

 Restoration of old wooden windows with your own hands - sequence of work

New PVC double-glazed windows replace old wooden structures, but not all owners are in a hurry to install them. Indeed, apart from the mass of advantages, plastic has many disadvantages as a manufactured material. Therefore repair and restoration of wooden windows are still relevant, aimed at extending their service life. All the work can be done independently by applying certain technologies and using the necessary tools and materials.

Wooden windows, even if they are old Stalinist, have some advantages, which include: 

  • high performance and environmental characteristics of the natural material;
  • the favorable microclimate created by them inside the room because the wood has a unique structure that allows it to "breathe";
  • low thermal conductivity, which is very beneficial in terms of energy-saving;
  • long service life because wood is a durable and easily repairable material;
  • Attractive appearance, so they fit well into any interior.

 In addition, it should be noted that the cost of restoring old window systems is lower than the cost of new glazing. And all the work can be done even by a novice craftsman. The only difficulty of the procedure is a big-time expenditure, especially if the house or apartment has many windows.

Restoration is carried out in several stages, starting with low-key elements in the far room. This will allow you to get the necessary experience and repair the remaining windows more qualitatively.

Dismantling work is carried out in the following sequence:

  • The first thing to do is remove the glass to remain intact until reinstallation. Carefully remove the nails and staples, picking them up with an improvised tool. If caulk was used, it is knocked out with a chisel, taking care not to apply excessive force and not damage the glass.
  • Dismantle the window frames. If there are difficulties, they are removed with awnings, first unscrewing the screws that hold them. As a last resort, the screws are drilled out with a metal drill of the appropriate diameter.
  • Removal of window frames is carried out as necessary - when they are destroyed or need to be restored.

 Frames are cleaned of paint by choosing one of the most common methods - thermal or chemical. Each has its peculiarities. First, you need a construction hair dryer. The process itself is uncomplicated and is carried out in the following sequence:

  • the painted surfaces are heated;
  • After waiting for the old paint to swell and become softer, it is removed with a spatula;
  • Finally, the entire structure is cleaned with sandpaper.

 The chemical method uses special agents - rinsers, carrying out the work in the following order:

  • the substance is applied to the painted surface;
  • then the treated area is covered with a polyethylene film;
  • After waiting for one to two hours, it is removed, and the dissolved paint is removed with a spatula;
  • If necessary, the procedure is repeated.

 Since flushing is very toxic, all operations are carried out in a well-ventilated room using personal protective equipment.

After the paint is removed, proceed to frame repair, which is carried out in several stages:

  • Prepared structures are laid on even wooden boards made of plywood or chipboard.
  • Check the geometry of the frames and individual sashes. The easiest way is to measure the diagonals. If the values are the same, everything is fine.
  • Frames are fixed by hammering nails around their perimeter.
  • Drill out the old dowels. To make the hole neat, take a drill a little larger in diameter than the rods' size.
  • New dowels are prepared from well dried and not cracked wood with a core drill, making sure to choose the direction across the grain. Their diameter should exceed the size of the planting holes by 0.6-0.7 mm.
  • The frame is disassembled completely, and joints are smeared with joinery glue.
  • Parts are assembled in reverse order and placed in the template on the board. When doing so, check the equality of the diagonals and, if necessary, trim them.
  • Dowels smeared with liquid nails are hammered into the prepared holes using a mallet. Or an ordinary hammer, but through a sag of a wooden bar.

 Any chips or cracks on the surface of the frames are sealed with putty designed to work with wood. Fill the holes left by old self-tapping screws and nails. If the structure is covered with varnish, the putty is selected under the color of the wood.

Check the quarters for the wings and sash. Existing gaps are removed with liquid nails. If the strap in the landing frames comes in with force, the excess wood is cut with a chisel. After adjustment, all surfaces are treated with sandpaper to get the smoothest base. At the end of the wooden elements are covered with a protective impregnation, which should be rubbed in. The procedure is carried out in two steps.

Window frames are restored similarly. They are also cleaned, puttied, treated with a protective composition, and painted.

After the frames are assembled, the next step is to apply the paint coating. How well it will be done depends directly on the appearance and durability of the windows. Painting is carried out as follows:

  • the surface of the frame is treated with fine sandpaper;
  • cleaned of dust;
  • in two steps coated with a layer of primer, which improves adhesion and reduces the consumption of material;
  • Prepare the varnish or paint, for what, pouring into a small container, stir, and bring to the right consistency;
  • To avoid stains, paint is applied with a brush in two layers, but for some types of paint is better to use a tampon.


It remains to install the new fittings and glass. The first thing to do is install the insulation according to Swedish technology. The essence of the method is to cut a groove around the perimeter of the frame 1 cm deep. It is filled with a tubular silicone sealant, which has a service life of 20 years. The "tail" of the tape is inserted into the prepared groove and pressed to the ground using a plastic spatula, a particular device.

 Swedish technology allows for a high level of thermal and noise insulation in the room.

Install metal corners, which will give the structure greater strength and canopies. Before screwing in new self-tapping screws to prevent the wood from cracking, holes are pre-drilled for them. When attaching the sashes, you should use a level. The more accurately they are aligned, the easier it is to open and fewer gaps. Similarly, act when installing the wings.

 Before installing the windows, all the corners of the quarters are filled with silicone sealant and gently set in place after fixing glazing beads. After waiting for the adhesive to harden, mount pawls handles and other fittings. On this repair with their own hands of the window wooden frames is completed. As you can see, there are no notable difficulties in the work. Therefore, you should only pay attention to the accuracy and compliance with the above recommendations.

Self and professional restoration of old windows is often based on Swedish technology. However, its essence boils down to cutting the Euro-strip sealing cord, and the adjustment and repainting remain extra services. The price starts from 3000 rubles/window. And in principle, the Euro-strip technology is not a restoration but insulation. (About which, in anticipation of the onset of cold weather, we wrote here).

Below, the article will describe the technology of repairing wooden windows, allowing even rotten windows to look no worse than plastic, and add them at least 40 years of life.

In the meantime, let's find out what tools and materials are needed for this - there are not many of them:

  • A set of chisels of different widths, from 4 to 30 mm.
  • A fragment of wide, 4-6 mm and thin, no more than 0,3 mm jigsaw or jigsaw blade (band saw). Suppose a hand jigsaw on the farm is a solid round for it.
  • A wide shoemaker's knife, a special knife used by painters to scrape paint off a palette.
  • Thin-walled core drill bit for wood 8-10 mm on the inside; purchased after revision of the sashes.
  • Carpenter's angle.
  • Racetrack or bubble level 1 m.

You will also need a plumb line, but you can easily make it yourself from a thread with a nut. Finally, you will need the following materials:

  1. Мwood glue - "liquid nails", about 0.3 kg.
  2. Wood putty on sawdust of the desired tone, 0.5 kg, or 0.5 l of fine sawdust; sold in construction stores.
  3. Natural olive, 3 kg for a two-room apartment of average area.
  4. Thickness whitewash (dry mixture of pigment and filler, diluted by hand with thinner), titanium or zinc whitewash, 2 kg of the same calculation.
  5. Flute brushes 40 and 80 mm.
  6. Kerosene, 2 liters.
  7. Nails, minor and 60-80 mm, 0.5 kg.
  8. Sandpaper #60 or #80, 0.7 m.
  9. A dense plastic bag 1.7 m deep and 0.5 m wide. The packing from bedding etc., will do. Holes should be sealed with tape.
  10. A sheet of plywood or a flat board of boards slightly larger than the window frame.
  11. Scraps of aviation or water-resistant plywood 1-1.5 mm thick, or a block of sturdy fine wood such as oak, beech, walnut, mountain ash, pear, plum, cherry, acacia.
  12. Silicone glue, 10-20 ml.

Note: water-based deep penetrating polymer wood fillers are not suitable for this application: they significantly increase the thermal conductivity of wooden parts.

In addition, depending on the design of the window, you may need a stain of the desired color and acrylic clear varnish. If it is possible to use an industrial hair dryer, kerosene and a large plastic bag will not be needed. Having stocked up on the above, you can start overhauling old windows.

Working conditions

It is better to work on the windows in warm, even hot, dry weather: the proper humidity should not exceed 65% and better than 40%. In case of bad weather, the window openings for the period of repair tighten the film on a temporary frame of waste lumber: slabs, trash, old billets, etc.

Disassembly and Inspections

The essential element of the window's construction is wooden dowels ("dowels") fastening it in the corners. Describing the methods of working with them will be given enough attention, and repairing the window begins with inspecting and revising the dowels.

First, remove the sash, glazing beads, or chisel, carefully unscrew the putty, and remove the glass. Then remove the fittings (it will still need a new one), wooden sills (tear) from the outer sash carefully remove: they are on the nails, which certainly rusted. Also, pull out all the other pins and remove the steel brackets - for further work in the frame, sashes should remain only wood.

Then the frame and the sashes are put one by one on the board and leveled to rectangularity, measuring the diagonals: they must be of equal length. Especially carefully measure and drop the sashes of the window sash: they are small, and the cost of a mistake is high. For example, 1 mm of diagonal discrepancy on the length gives a gap of 0.6-0.7 mm.

Leveled part of the window is fixed with nails, carefully hammering them into the board close to the sash, and check the old dowels. If all sit as they should, approximately in the middle of the corner, carefully drilled out their more giant diameter drill, but no more than 0.6 wide rectangular, without considering the grooves, quarters, and angles of solid wood (see picture below). If you find a "gone," which is not uncommon, see the figure above, work like this:

  • For the old one on the contour, we drenched 3-4 drops of superglue, and it is necessary that it did not fall out when drilling and the hole did not go away.
  • Wait 5-10 minutes for the glue to set firmly in-depth; it will flow far.
  • Drill a properly placed hole.
  • With a saw band, slipping it into the gap between the whiskers of the connection, we sawed the old dowel.

After the fixing holes in all window parts are drilled, the frame is disassembled into parts and cleaned of old paint.

Paint Stripping

You can remove old paint from windows in two ways: thermal and chemical. For cleaning with heat treatment, and industrial hair dryer is used. Do not try it with a household one: it will not give 200-250 degrees. And do not set the hair dryer temperature over 250 - you get low temperature, without charring, burn the wood, and it will lose its quality. The same will happen if you heat with a blowtorch or propane torch.

The piece to be cleaned is placed on the butt and heated in 25-30 cm sections. When the paint starts bubbling, it is scraped off like plasticine with a cobbler knife or masticator. A spatula with a straight blade even sharpened either cut into the wood or slips over the paint.

Video: Paint removal with a thermal method

"Chemical" paint is removed with a plastic bag and kerosene (solvent or nitro solvents are not suitable, they will ruin the wood):

  • Each piece of wood is wrapped in rags.
  • The whole bundle, as much as it will fit into the neck of the bag, is shoved into it; there should be a reserve for tying the bag.
  • Pour 0.5 liters of kerosene on the wrapped wood.
  • Tie the bag tightly, and leave it for a day or more until the paint softens.
  • Take out the parts one by one and clean off the paint with the same tool.


  1. Chemical paint softening is a smelly and fire-hazardous operation. It should be done on a balcony or outdoors.
  2. If you take the entire bundle out of the bag, the kerosene will quickly evaporate, and the paint will solidify again.

In both cases, if you intend to paint the window, the tiny particles of paint in the recesses do not need to pluck out: only putty and sanding will be easier. But, on the other hand, if the window will go under the stain and varnish, work on them.


The next step is impregnation with olive oil. Purpose - To prevent the again to develop the germs of rot killed by heat or chemicals and restore the structure of decrepit wood as far as possible. Hastily, for a few years before the following repair, impregnate parts with a brush on all sides 3-4 times, the next - after complete absorption of the previous one. Before the following impregnation, surface detail should not be taken on the stick.

The century is impregnated in a particular device: welded at one end of a piece of steel tube 100-120 mm. Although it is set obliquely at about 30 degrees, it is desirable to use a welded diagonal angle so that the box is not rolled. The operation is performed only in the open air away from residential buildings: in the yard, at the cottage. Be sure to have a burlap sacking or fiberglass cloth on hand: the olive can burst into flames. You should know this in advance and not be frightened, but immediately throw a rug over the neck of the pipe. If it goes out - you can continue.

Pour three-quarters of the olive oil into the pipe and heat it from below with a hairdryer or a stream of hot air from an electric stove. As it heats up, the olive will begin to bubble: this is the moisture evaporating from it and the air escaping. If the smell of olive oil suddenly intensifies, move the heater away, wait for a little, and continue heating. When there are no bubbles, you can start impregnating.

Caution: Never look straight into the neck of the pipe, and do not lean over it! Watch the olive from the side with a squint.

You will need a hook made of steel wire 5-6 mm for impregnation with a sharpened end. The detail is placed in the tube and sank the curve for 3-5 minutes, and then they catch the same point, take out and lay it on the table for drying. Do not grasp the parts with your hands, even if you have gloves on: they will drip off the hot olive with a temperature over 130 degrees.

Parts made of the most common pine treated in this way will last outdoors for 150 years or more, and oil-painted positions require repainting no more than once every 15 years.

Window Restoration

Before we take on the restoration of wooden windows, you must prepare new dowels and wedges for them. The dowels are drilled with a core drill of any straight business wood. The drilling must be done BETWEEN the fibers, as shown in the picture. Hastily cut "dowels" will not hold the frames for long. Each dowel must be prepared with wedges long by their diameter, a width of 5-7 mm, and a thickness of 1-1,5 mm: the best wedges - are oak and rowan. The diameter dowel is 0.5-0.7 mm larger than the diameter of the planting hole under it.

Alignment on the outside

The aligned frame is assembled without fixing anything yet; it must be covered with plastic sheeting in advance. Align along the diagonals, as before, and set them with nails driven in from the sides. Drill again through the mounting holes.

Then the frame is disassembled, the whiskers and grooves of the joints are smeared with liquid nails, quickly (the glue hardens in a few minutes), assembled in the slipway, just as checked soon diagonally and, if necessary, trimmed. When the cement hardens, proceed to fix dowels. Do not put off another day: to dowels hold the frame as it should, the glue joint at their installation must still be entirely plastic.

The dowels are lightly lubricated with liquid nails and hammered into the holes with a mallet. THE FIBERS OF THE DOWEL MUST BE ACROSS THE FIBERS OF THE WOOD! This is a prerequisite for the reliability of the connection, see figure. Finally, the dowels are fastened with wedges on both sides, hammering them ON THE FIRES OF the dowel; know the constitution.

You may ask: What about the centerpiece? The dowel fibers will run along the dowel fibers.

The thing is that after the wedges are hammered into the dowels, they will be placed on the "waist" of the dowel and will not split. The wedge, hammered into the dowel before the glue hardens completely, will give some vertical force so that the entire joint will be compressed, and the cement will gain strength under pressure. After three days of curing at +25 degrees, such a frame, dropped on the corner from a meter height, remains rectangular.

Adjustment of frame and sashes

Rectangularity on the outer edge does not guarantee the straightness of installation openings: wood can dry unevenly. Therefore, the next step of the work is to align the inner quarters.

First, adjust the window frame and sash in the corresponding strap: we put the edge on the butt and, with a plumb line, check the quarters in turn. Take it as a base if you found at least one perpendicular. If not - we'll have to suffer from an angle piece and a straightedge until we find the most "gone" corner. From him, then from the other corners of the pencil on the straightedge rebound lines of a new opening and sensible, and the corners of the chisel pick out the excess (in the picture - left).

Adjusting the frame and window sashes

Next, in the same way, we check and align the sashes. Then the straps are placed next to each other and aligned in height and width, as shown in the picture on the right. Again, you can leave the glass areas untouched: their slight skew is not essential for the look nor the window's durability. But if you get into taste and want to align them, it will not hurt.

After the described operations, the sashes will be less than the landing frame opening. For adjustment in the frame (precisely in it, otherwise, the window will not close later!), we put on liquid nail strips of plywood in quarters. After the glue hardens, we bring it to the exactness with a serrated edge and chisel and choose the recesses for the fittings. Then tack on through 15-25 cm small nails, sinking their heads. Then we soak the plates with olive oil using a 40 mm flat washer.

Caulking and sanding

Putty for small hollows can be prepared by yourself by mixing sawdust with liquid nails in the proportion of 3:1 by volume. Then, knead it quickly, in small portions, and just as soon as putty: glue sets in a few minutes. Finally, sand the frame with sandpaper.

A reminder: before you putty, don't forget to put the drip moldings in place, on the liquid nails, and then on the regular staples.


They have been painting wooden windows for decades is done with oil-based paint. The best option: purchase a thick-textured paint and knead it yourself with linseed or "wood" (walnut) oil, as painters do. "Natural" ready-to-use oil paints on sale are often based on synthetic or mineral oil thinners, which are far inferior to traditional ones in terms of durability. In addition, Glyphthalic and Penta phthalic enamels are unsuitable: in 5 years, the window will require repainting, and unnecessary paint layers spoil the view.

When buying thick paint, ensure that the pigment is mineral, not synthetic. You can check whitewash by rubbing a pinch between your fingers: it should not feel "slippery," and the powder should stick to your fingers. Synthetic pigment almost entirely comes off when you shake it off.

Tip: The main parts of paint are pigment, filler (dry), and thinner. If you want your windows to have a very long shine, choose a color with a marble floor filler.

Oil paint is kneaded in a wide flat bowl: pour a pile, make a well on the top, pour oil in, and knead. Oil is added in small portions to the desired thickness. For windows, you need the consistency of liquid sour cream.


The "natural-looking" finish in the described technology is made with stains. Stains change the tone of the wood and emphasize its texture: an ordinary business pine, after treatment with a suitable color, can be virtually indistinguishable from the stained oak, pandan, or mahogany. It is desirable to experiment on old logs before decorating: pick up the tone and degree of dilution.

Decorating with stains has additional advantages: the dye penetrates deep, staining the wood in mass so that after sanding in the case of repair, do not have to repaint. In addition, the stain increases resistance to wood rot and UV rays.

Completes the decorative finish of the window, its transparent or tinted acrylic varnish, and installation of fittings and glass. Only Japanese tung varnish competes with acrylic in terms of quality, but it is not available to every oligarch.


Before installing glass in the inner corners of the quarters, we squeeze out a thin sausage of aquarium silicone glue. After attaching the glass nails, remove the silicone leaks with a cloth moistened with vinegar. Remaining the pins from the silicone dry is unnecessary: it will protect them from corrosion. After curing silicone (2 mm/day), we seal the glasses with putty as usual: chalk mixed with olive oil. If the glass is attached to tripods, they need to be pre-treated, as well as other wooden parts and paint.

When do windows need renovation or repair?

Firstly, when it starts to blow from the window opening;

Second, when the window's appearance is lost due to frame deformation, fungus, damage to wood, or one of the units (window hardware).

How to repair a wooden window with your own hands?

To begin with, let's deal with the definition: window repair or restoration - these are similar works, which are not fundamentally different, consist of clearing, puttying, painting, sealing, and insulating windows. Painting the windows for the repair work does not apply more to the restoration work because the functional quality of wooden windows has no effect. It only changes the appearance.

The degree of window wear (frames, glass, and fittings) will differ in the approach to repair work.

Repairing wooden windows is simple enough but requires strict performance at each stage of the work.

Cosmetic repair of wooden windows

Elimination of localized damage. For example, fungus damage to a part of the window frame.

  • I am detecting the area of damage. To do this, you can conduct a small test: with an awl, you need to push through weak or suspicious areas of the frame. If the point falls through quickly, then the wood is damaged;
  • cutting off the unsuitable layer;
  • The cleaned area is dried. To do this, you can use a construction hair dryer or a heater (be careful with the glass, direct the flow of air directly to the wood);
  • applying wood hardener and wood preservative;
  • I am applying the filler. Layer thickness - according to the instructions. If you need to use several layers, you need to wait until the first one dries well;
  • I am painting the window.

Overhaul of a wooden window - complete restoration

Tools and materials:

  1. A hair dryer to remove the paint. Referring to the reviews of artisans, we note that many people try to remove the stain without it, but it only more damage the wood;
  2. Grinder and sandpaper. For leveling the surface;
  3. shoemaker knife for removing old paint
  4. Spatula. Renovation of wooden windows involves mandatory puttying on the surface of the frame and sashes;
  5. paint and varnish brushes;
  6. chisels;
  7. hardware, glass (if replacement is expected);
  8. varnish, lacquer, and paint;
  9. putty;
  10. primer;
  11. Sealant.

The cost of repairing wooden windows depends on the price of supplies, tools, and of course, the condition of the frames. On the other hand, window restoration with your own hands does not require any special skills. However, it should be noted that this work in one day is not done.

A few words about preparation: it is better to perform the work on a warm, sunny day. The primary condition - is dryness because high humidity will have a detrimental effect on the result (the wood changes geometry, dries badly, etc.).

Wooden window dismantling

We remove the window sashes from the overhangs. If the glass is seated on the putty - remove it with a chisel. If on glazing beads (glass rail), carefully dismantle them. After that, take out the glass.

All fittings are removed (better to replace with new ones). You also need to remove the wooden drip moldings on the windows (wooden strips located on the bottom of the frame outside the window, also called "teardrop"). They are attached to the nails, which are probably already rotted. Finally, all the self-tapping screws, nails, metal corners, etc., are removed from the frames.

"Naked" frame put on a flat surface and measure - all the diagonals must be the same length; otherwise, the skew in some places will form gaps, which is unacceptable. Next, we fasten the frame tightly to the surface (it can be a board).

Next, we check the condition and location of the window dowels. As a rule, the corners of the frame have connections on the wood dowels. As a consequence (before painting and sanding), they will need to be replaced with new ones.

Window dowels can be knocked out with a hammer (cone-shaped, so knock out should be on the thin side), provided they are evenly located (symmetrical to the corner) and succumb. But, under pressure decrepit frame can be deformed, so it is better to drill out. If the dowel is loose, you can fix it before drilling - a couple of drops of superglue in the gap, and after 5 minutes, the drill will go like solid wood.

In the next step, when the window is disassembled, we proceed to the cleaning of the paint.

How to remove paint from wooden windows

There are several ways to clean paint off windows.

Remove paint with a construction hair dryer.

Work carefully, ideally removing the glass or directing the hot air flow to avoid direct contact with the glass. The high temperature can cause the glass to break (crack and fall out).

Set the temperature mode on the hair dryer to 250 degrees.

The task is not to remove the paint quickly but qualitatively. At higher temperatures, the wood will char and, as a result of the burn, will lose its properties.

The paint will rise in bubbles during heating, which must be peeled off with the right tool.

It is better to do it with a shoemaker knife (a palette knife for mixing paints in painting is also suitable). The thing is that the spatula will slip over the color or cut into the wood, leaving burrs.

Paint Remover with Chemical Remedies

Remove old paint from the window frame with unique solutions (rinses, liquids). Also, use the "tricky method" - kerosene and a plastic bag. It is kerosene, as solvents and solvents destroy the structure of the wood.

The technology of performance: 

  • The wooden frame should be wrapped with cloth (rags), and the whole structure should be placed in a plastic bag.

  • Soak the fabric abundantly with kerosene, tie the bag and leave it for a day or two. During this time, the paint should soften and be easy to remove (for cleaning, use the above tool).

Tip: Take the strips out of the bag gradually, i.e., one removed - cleaned, etc. If you remove it all at once - kerosene will evaporate (dry); therefore, the layer of paint will return to its original state (dried, hardened) and will not separate.

Of course, such a large package for a whole window frame may not be found, so you must separate the frame into elements. Or, as an option for treating the frame as a whole, you can moisten a cloth and wrap it tightly with polyethylene film, tying the layers with a rope to seal the treated surface as much as possible.

Tip: A pungent smell accompanies note, paint removal from windows in this way, plus, the technique is flammable, so, to perform it must be outdoors or on the balcony.

The inner window jamb and window sill must also be cleaned.

After removing the paint, the frame will look like the photo. This is not the right look for finishing work.

Paint residue is removed with sandpaper or a grinder.

Fixing a warped wooden window

Sometimes old wooden windows become warped, manifesting as warps and distortions of the frame. For example, one or more window sashes are warped. This will be especially noticeable when installing the stack when it lies in the selected groove and the glass weighs on the corners or vice versa. As a result, the corners lie down, and in the middle is a gap.

If the window is removed and disassembled, you can put it under the press, which is made of wooden boards and a weighting agent.

If on the installed window, you can in the place of a bend (curvature), you can insert a stop (bar, bar suitable size), and apply force to close the window, securing the bars or come up with fastening screws (for example, a bar on the diagonal to screw to the frame). All these manipulations are performed without glass.

In this condition, leave it for 2-3 days, and then increase the thickness of the strut, and thus bring it to the desired position.

The method is controversial, but sometimes it helps. For example, you may see some cracks, which can be repaired. First, take a standard syringe to pump PVA glue into the gap. Since the glue is liquid, it will flow out, and the place should be sealed with tape. After drying, repeat the procedure, and then clean up, putty, and paint everything.

Restoration of wooden windows - the restoration of rotten sections of the frame

If a fragment of the frame rotted, it could be replaced or restored. If replacement is not foreseen, then restoration remains. You will need epoxy putty for wood (the composition can include fiberglass, which will significantly increase the rigidity of the structure).

The damaged area is cleaned of paint, and the trash is removed. Next, putty is applied.

 Mixed putty is applied to the damaged area, and the mixture should fill all cracks and crevices well. Next, we recreate the missing space so that it was a little more than the desired plane, i.e., there should be a volume for subsequent sanding. Drying (hardening) putty takes a day (at room temperature). Then, using a grinder or sandpaper fixed on a block, grind the surface to complete smoothing.

 It should be understood that such restoration restores the appearance but does not guarantee sufficient density, especially in places of active use (the sites of close contact with the sash of the window). But if the window is deaf or rarely used, it is a self-sufficient way out of the situation without completely replacing the window or frame elements.

Repair of wooden windows - replacing part of the frame: 

  • inspection of the frame for damage;

  • mark the damaged area with dots;

  • sawing out the area;

  • replacement preparation;

  • Replacement. The prepared part of the frame is placed in the right place, fixed with glue, and clamped with clamps. After 24 hours, the clamps are removed;

  • Grinding the joints of the old frame and the replacement. This will avoid height differences;

  • primer treatment;

  • Painting.

Puttying and sanding wooden windows

After cleaning the frame of paint, you need to putty it.

Putty for windows is sold as a ready-made product. But, at the same time, you can prepare it yourself. Three parts of sawdust are mixed with one piece of liquid nails.

The technology is simple, but the mortar dries quickly, so mix swiftly and in small portions.

Knead it - putty, etc.

Based on homemade putty glue, it hardens quickly.

Dried and tight surface sanded with a machine or sandpaper (sandpaper) fine grain.

Impregnation with wood varnish

Wood impregnation with olive - a suitable "grandfather's method," time-tested. Now it is difficult to find natural olive, as a rule, sell something derivative. The point is that the real one is made from natural ingredients (linseed oil, hemp oil), not from synthetic derivatives. Many good impregnators are on the market, displacing the olive, and its production from vegetable oils is simply unprofitable. As an option for aesthetes, you can make your olive oil.

Coating window frames with olivine are done with a brush, the first layer as impregnation, and the second-third finishing coat; between coats, you need to keep the time gap (preferably until the complete drying, and this process is not fast). If the surface is not sticky, then you can continue working.

Impregnation with hot oil

Also, apply the method of hot oil impregnation. Here you should understand that oil wool is a flammable material quickly ignited in contact with an open flame.

How to heat the oil?

You can heat the olive in a water bath, and the second way is more dangerous - heating to a boiling state. To do this, make a flask of an iron tube, one end of which is welded. Pour it into the olive and heat with an electric stove or construction hair dryer to boiling (in the process of heating is possible ignition, extinguish by throwing sacking). After that, dip bars of window frames in the hot olive for 5 minutes, take out a hook, since the high temperature, and put it to dry. According to reviews, the impregnation on the hot olive creates a coating for the ages (the effect of wooden railway sleepers).

Everyone decides for themselves private windows or treat with antiseptic; each has pros and cons.

Coating with stain and varnish

If the condition of the window frames after removing the paint is good and there is a desire to preserve the naturalness of the wood, you can treat the surface with a stain.

With a stain, you can change the shade of wood; for example, tinted pine looks like stained oak.

Before treating a window frame with a stain, it is better to check the consistency of the mortar on a separate board (preferably of the same species of wood and shade), i.e., to pick up the tone of the wood.

Painting a stain on wooden windows improves their aesthetic qualities, makes the wood more resistant to UV rays and prevents rotting and fungal growth.

In addition, the stain penetrates deep into the wood structure, so if you later have to sand somewhere, it will not violate the shade and texture of the frame.

 The finish with a stain finishes with a varnish. For example, dry window frames are coated with transparent varnish (it is better to use acrylic varnish for wood, glossy or matte).

After completely drying, install the window hardware (awnings, handles, bolts) and insert the glass.

Installing Glass in the Window

Proper glazing of wooden windows provides fast glass installation because the micro-gaps between the mirror and the frame will blow. Glasses are seated with silicone adhesive (aquarium sealant). Along the groove under the window frame glass, squeeze a thin layer of aquarium glue and put the glass, which is fixed by staples. Protruding glue wipe with a sponge soaked in vinegar. Do not scrub the nail heads. A thin layer of sealant will further protect them from rust. Leave the windows to dry; the glue will take at least a day to harden.

Replacing the glass in wooden windows

Sometimes the restoration of wooden windows is accompanied by the replacement of the glass if there are defects (cracks, clouding, scuffs, traces from welding, or a grinder). After all, glass also has its resource. For example, ordering a drink, it is necessary to measure the opening precisely but to order 2-3 mm. less because the glass is expanding under the influence of temperature, and the resulting gap will not let him break.

Glass is fixed in the frame using glazing beads and small nails. In this case, glazing bars must be prepared in advance (impregnation with olive oil, paint, or stain treatment). You can even drill holes in the glazing bead with a thin drill bit. Then, when hammering, a glazing bead will not split, and the glass will not crack.

Below is a photo gallery - master class on the glass installation on the putty, without a glazing bead. For example, if the glass broke, you need to replace it, and at hand, there is no rail to fix the glass, or there is no need for it. Putty for glass is bought ready-made or made by yourself (mix chalk on the olive).

 Painting wooden windows

Choosing what to treat wooden windows, look at the quality of the work.

If you are satisfied with the condition of the surface (i.e., no severe damage, uniform color), give preference to varnish. In this case, to even out or change the tone of the wood, you can treat the frame stain. It will also hide minor defects.

If there are many areas with putty, you should cover them with paint.

Oil or acrylic paint is used for staining. The first lasts longer but takes a long time to dry, the second on the contrary.

It is necessary to dilute the paint beforehand; too thick will poorly impregnate the wood, and stains may appear. Instead, it is better to apply several layers of more fluid color.

It is recommended to protect the window glass with masking tape.

The first coat should soak into the wood. Only after it has dried well can the second coat be applied.

You should start to paint from the inside - from the glass.

After painting, remove the tape (while the paint is still dry). If paint marks are on the glass, remove them with a blade.

 How to remove scotch tape

If the windows are glued not with masking tape but with packing tape, there will be very difficult to erase traces. In this case, we mean that the glasses and the frames (both wooden and plastic) are covered with duct tape.

The first thing that comes to mind: are gasoline, diesel fuel, alcohol, cologne, etc. But, these tools can not be used if you do not want to damage the paint coating. So, instead, a simple and environmentally friendly way to remove the scotch tape residue on the window frames is removed with vegetable oil (sunflower oil), then washed off with a detergent solution.

Window Hinge Installation

If the old window hinges (overhangs) are worn out, they must be replaced. The technology for replacing the hinges is shown below. First, it is necessary to determine the place of attachment correctly. To do this, the window frame must be inserted into the window opening and secured utilizing wedges. When the same gap is achieved along the entire perimeter, mark the places for installation. Chisel a groove for fitting the hinge and screw it on with screws.

 Sealing and insulation of windows

Rubber sealant for wooden windows, fixed around the perimeter of the frame, will reduce heat loss.

You can perform repairs on wooden windows using Swedish technology. Its essence is that it is necessary to choose a groove in the sash. Then, a special silicone tubular euro-strip gasket is installed in it. It is not afraid of low and high temperatures and has a twenty-year warranty.

 The final touch to the window restoration will be installing window hardware (handles and bolts). Only after that will the window be installed in its place.

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