Cost to install a window in an existing wall

Quality assessment criteria for the customer's acceptance of the quality of the plastic window installation work

1. The sashes must open and tilt freely without hitting the frame elements or the frame profile. 
2. the window units must be installed "level."
3. Interior window sills should be installed "level," but with a slight slope towards the room (to the floor) of 1-2°. The window sill must be positioned symmetrically to the central vertical axis of the window (except as agreed with the customer). The end caps on the window sill are glued. Deflection and buckling of the unloaded window sill plane are not permitted; however, deformation of the sill plate from leaning or under the weight of a person standing on it is not a defect.
4. The drip tray should be firmly attached to the frame, the drip tray should not be loose in the opening, and the connection between the drip tray and the wall should be sealed.
5. The turn of the window handle (operation of the hardware) should be performed smoothly, without backlash, excessive force, clicks, and seizing.
6. Decorative caps shall be placed on the heads of the mounting dowels on the opening side.
7. The decorative covers on hinges of sashes shall be installed, stickers-identifiers from the surface of glazing units, and protective film from the surface of the profile shall be removed (unless otherwise agreed with the Customer).
8. The joint under the window sill shall be plastered flush with the adjacent surface of the existing wall (the common is not painted).

To dismantle an old window, you will need a chisel, hammer, tire iron, hacksaw, or jigsaw. A hammer can replace the chisel and hammer. First, get rid of the old window sash or that sash of the window, which is the smallest in size. Then we remove the giant strap. After that, it is the turn of the internal partition between the sashes - it must be sawed and then removed from the frame. Then we "dismantle" the lower part of the old frame, also with a jigsaw or a jig saw, and then dismantle the remaining window parts.

After the old frame has been dismantled, it is necessary to level the surfaces where the new window will be placed. To do this, you need to chisel away all the irregularities with a punch or chisel and hammer, and to be able to install a new window sill - the same tools need to prepare grooves in the openings of the future window.

You need to prepare for a relatively "clean" installing the new window. To do this, completely free the window opening from debris and dust. 

Particular attention should be paid to where the sealing tapes will be glued to ensure their secure fixation. Special primers can be used for this purpose.

Preparing the profile for installation

Before installing a new window, it is necessary to dismantle the window by removing the sashes and insulating glass from the fixed parts of the window. Since the outer side of the window profile is laminated with a protective film, you must remove it before installation. It is also necessary to fix the fasteners for mosquito nets and close the drainage holes with decorative plugs.

An essential stage in the preparation of the window profile for installation is to meet the requirements for the protection of the installation seam or structure of windows, according to rools. In the American climate with high-temperature fluctuations, even with the most careful installation and use of windows, the problem may be the appearance of condensation and then fungus on the walls adjacent to the window opening. To avoid this unpleasantness, it is recommended to use a vapor barrier and water vapor permeable tapes. Before fixing the frame into the space, it is necessary to put on PSUL (vapor-porous self-expanding sealing tape) on the internal part of the frame quarter or on the frame profile where it joins the quarter.

This will ensure an airtight adjacency of the profile to the window opening. To ensure the joint sealing from the inside of the room, vapor barrier tapes are glued to the profile by the manufacturer's recommendations. It is recommended to use self-expanding tape for hermetic sealing of the joints of filler elements, expanding and underlying profile.

Installing a new window

Sometimes, as a result of architectural changes, it is necessary to make a new window in the existing blank wall of the house. Consequently, a window opening will have to be knocked out in it. But before starting this work, you need to design and install a lintel; only after that can you proceed to knock out the opening and install the window and window sills.

Sometimes it is necessary to enlarge the window without lowering its lower edge because you need to put a table under the window or the heating radiator is in the way. In this case, it is necessary to increase the window's width. But then the lintel will lose its support and will no longer perform the function of the structural element - the walls and floors can crack. Strengthen the existing lintel before knocking out a window opening. The constructor will determine the type of strengthening and installation method. In the calculations, he must consider the width of the door, the height of the room, the number and location of floors over the lintel, the weight of the wall, the type and weight of the roof structure, and what structural material will be used. These are often hot-rolled steel angles, channels, and I-beams, which are easy to mount, almost avoiding wet work. But monolithic or prefabricated reinforced concrete beams or hooks can be used.

Builders, glazing typical houses, save money on everything. They usually install thin glass and cheap plastic and use cheap installation foam and fasteners. Installation is performed with shoddy craft to get things done quickly. As a result, the windows do not withstand gusty winds and winter frosts. Looking for a profit, some companies pass off as profiles in the project their cheaper counterparts made of recycled plastic without reinforcement. Unfortunately, residential buildings are unacceptable because of their fragility and toxicity. Therefore, tenants change the glazing from the construction company in most cases.

Using thin plastic profiles in apartments in our climate makes no sense. You have to replace them with high quality. The sashes will sag if the profile reinforcement is more delicate than 1.2 mm, especially on higher floors. It is impossible to repair them. Fixes a situation only complete replacement of window systems.

Installation of a profile of this or that model must be technically justified. Plastic with a small weight helps save money but does not perform the necessary functions in the living room. Much more harmful to keep on reinforcement. Even the best profile system with thin support is unusable. When windows perform poorly, their shortcomings are usually blamed on the hardware. But a frequent cause of the problem is precisely the insufficient thickness of the reinforcement. It negatively affects the movement and position of sashes and leads to a decrease in insulation.

For replacement, many prefer plastic of a promoted brand. But an inexpensive system of a less popular brand may not be inferior to its quality. If the 70-mm windows are suitable for the opening of the technical characteristics, it is appropriate to install a non-brand system of class B with an external wall depth of 2.5 mm. The quality is not compromised, and the price is lower.

The largest area of glazing is on the double-glazed window. Its defects can be seen at once. If the glass package is fogging up, it should be changed. Often the cause of fogging is a cheap filler. Also, glazing units "cry" when insulated with a low-quality sealant. Unscrupulous companies save on glass, installing ordinary models instead of double-glazed windows with declared properties. In modern houses, it is recommended to install energy-efficient windows. But some developers change them for the standard float glass. You can check the substitution with a particular device. If you have a lighter, low-emission glass gives out the reflection of its flame. If it has more blue 

shades, and less red, the reflector is coated with ionic sputtering.

Many newcomers change the glazing because of flimsy low-quality fixtures. Builders save money on fittings by buying low-quality parts. Another way to save money is to install a cheap PVC waste seal with a carcinogenic softener. After a year of use, such sealing rubber will not maintain tightness at the same level. It will be better to replace the sealant. 

Poor-quality sealing rubber "hardens" in frosts. In such a situation, it is better not to open the sash. Otherwise, even by adjusting the fittings, it will not be possible to achieve a tight rubber fit to the frame until the warmth.